One of the downfalls of owning a cat is the dreaded litter box. There is so many rules that apply to ones cat, that don’t apply to someone else’s, or even your other cat. I know from personal experience how difficult it can be. So here are some ideas as to why, and some ideas that may (or may not help) your cat. Ultimately, first rule out a medical issue such as a bladder infection/bladder stones, etc as this is not a substitute for a professional opinion, plus it may cost more in the long run and cause your cat more pain and anxiety.
- Not enough boxes. The standard is one box per cat plus one. Be sure to spread them out as well, put them in different rooms, on different floors, etc.
- Cats like things to stay the same. Simply moving something a few inches can cause some cats enough distress. For us, it was clothing. If there was something that was on the floor (particularly in the dining room), it didn’t belong there, and Mace let us know after a few days.
- Type of litter-Some cats are very texture based when it comes to their litter. Some like clumping, some like pine pellets, some preferred recycled newspaper pellets. Scent can sometimes be enough to stop them using a box as well. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
- Outdoor cat now indoor cat. Outdoor cats have a job and that is to defend their territory. When they become indoors, their territory becomes smaller and if they are used to marking their territory outside where there are no consequences, then they may do it inside as well. They may also mark out of boredom or stress. (see below)
- Not clean enough. I am guilty of this. I would rather have more litters and clean them less. Thankfully, for the most part, they would still use them, even if they were dirty, but I know some cats that need their box to be meticulous. Norris will seek out that clean box and christen it, sometimes if I’m still cleaning it.
- Not cleaning up accidents well enough. Animals have a very keen sense of smell, so much more than ours. If we can’t smell where our kitty has gone, that doesn’t mean that they can’t. Once they go somewhere, sometimes they think it’s ok to go there again. So a thorough cleaning that breaks down the urine enzymes, smells, etc can help dramatically, or you can stop their access to that spot. If it in a specific room, close the door, if it is a rug or mat, remove it completely if you can, or put something in that spot if possible.
- Location of box. Most kitties want some privacy when they go, so having a box in a high traffic area may discourage them from using it. I do know of some cats that want an audience, so a higher traffic area may work better. Dock’s box needed to be upstairs as she couldn’t travel downstairs to her box any longer due to her age. (see below)
- Type of box. Is it covered, does it have a door, is it too short, is it too tall. Many cats have a preference and if you have a covered box, but kitty isn’t using it, take the lid off and see what happens. My cat Dock had bad knees and would go into the box, but couldn’t assume the correct position, so her butt stayed in the air and she’d pee over the side, so it was a not a matter of not using the box, we needed a taller box.
- What is around the box. Do you have a mat? Mine have a matt in front of the boxes to catch the litter that gets flicked everywhere. Mace was not one to clean his paws and would just jump out, oh the mess. So the matts were necessary, but if you have a cat with sensitive feet, the matt may be deterring them from going into the box.
- Age related. As cats age, they are more prone to kidney issues, gastro-intestinal troubles, and mobility issues. Kidney disease causes an increase in thirst and in urination, so there might be issues with more urine in the box, increased odour, etc. Gastro-intestinal issues may come with a lower ability to digest certain food, causing smaller/larger stools or mushy or runny poops. This can cause an aversion to the box due to smell, or the pain involved with using the box. Mobility issues as cats may not be able to get up and down the stairs to get to a box, getting into the box might be too difficult, getting their butt down enough might hurt so they overshoot the sides, all of these might be an indicator.
- Illness related. If your cat has any urinary issues such as a urinary tract infection (uti), bladder stones, or feline interstitial cystitis (FIC), all of these can cause an aversion to the box. Cats tend to see the litter box as the source of their pain, not the act of urinating itself as the problem, so they think that by avoiding the box, they avoid the pain. When that doesn’t happen, they find another spot, and so on. A urinalysis, possibly bloodwork and possibly xrays will give your vet a clear picture of what might be the cause, such as a urinary tract infection, diabetes or kidney issues, or bladder stones.
- Cats are predators and they love to hunt and catch. If a cat’s instincts are not met, then all they can do is roam their territory over and over again, marking it again and again. Keeping them engaged, busy, and tired will help.
- Cats are not born a**holes. They want our love and attention just as any other pet or human, but when they do not receive enough attention, or the wrong kind of attention from their humans, they look for other ways to get it, even if it isn’t good attention. Rubbing a dog’s nose in an accident doesn’t help, neither does yelling at a cat. Unless you catch them in the act, there is no reason to get angry, just quietly clean up and investigate why it might be happening.
- Does your cat like to sit up high and watch you from a perch? But what if all of a sudden there is no perch, this will add stress as your kitty can no longer watch their territory for predators or interlopers. Mace used to love to burrow, mostly because he was always cold, but if we had no hiding spots, he would cry and wander the house until we made him a bed.
- Inter-cat conflict. Is there a favourite spot for your cats, but only one cat can occupy the space? This causes strife and will cause territorial aggression which can lead to an increase in marking. Do you have one cat that is a rough and tumble cat, but one that is a princess, the princess may be trying to say that she has no safe place, no real territory. Looking at how your cats interact with each other can be a great place to start
- Not spayed or neutered. Please be sure to spay and neuter your cat around 5 months of age. Not only will it reduce the pet population, it reduces the instances of mammary tumors and uterine infections in females, prostate and urethral issues in males and less territorial behaviour. There is no reason to let your pet have “one litter”. She’s not going to miss the wonder that is motherhood, and male cats only have intercourse to reproduce, not for fun like us humans, so he will not miss those testicles at all.
What you can do.
- Check for medical issues. Have a urinalysis, bloodwork and xrays done to get a full picture. You don’t want to simply treat for an infection if there is early kidney disease present as well.
- Keep boxes and litter the same. Some cats are ok with change, some aren’t.
- Have enough boxes and keep them clean. I know it’s a pain, but sometimes to keep your sanity, a litter box in the dining room is needed.
- Be sure to have enough perches, sleeping spots, beds, food and water dishes to keep everyone happy. No one wants to fight with their siblings, especially if mom’s going to yell.
- Feliway or other pheromone products. Ask your vet about a spray, collar or diffuser to help.
- Anti-anxiety medications can be of great benefit when given under a veterinarian’s supervision (we tried 3 with Mace before we found the right one). If your pet is older, give them their anti-inflammatories and pain medications as per your vet.
- Work with their instincts. Play with them, get them tired, get them jumping, catching prey, etc.
- If your cat is happy being an only cat, maybe getting them a play mate is not a great idea, no matter how badly you want another cat.
Jackson Galaxy hosts “My Cat From Hell” and has some great episodes that may help give insight, but first (and I cannot stress this enough) talk to your vet. They are the experts and should be your first stop. Best of luck.